Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Keller

Went in search of the meaning behind my last name.

Kellers are what the old established beer gardens are called because they used to be held in the underground beer cellars.

I'm going with the story that my family were brew masters or ran these establishments and not that they were some sort of basement dwellers.

We went down into the Augustina Keller... a long way underground down a long winding staircase.





Monday, August 12, 2013

Praha




We were able to stay in a very nice hotel in Prague because it’s cheaper than the Eurozone. It can be rowdy in the old city center so we stayed a couple blocks on the Vltava. It was an amazing little renovated victorian style building and a huge room with a balcony and view of the 1000 spires in the cityscape.

At night

We took a long walk into the night. This city is equally as beautiful in the day as it is lit up in the night. The narrow streets of old town are crowded at any time of day… at night, though, we discovered circus acts in the square and a lively nightlife.




We ended the night with a walk across the 700 year old Charles Bridge. We rubbed the St John Nepomuk plaque and found some fried cheese with Mayo from a street vendor in Wenceslas square … something that Pat has been talking about for months.


The Day

We took in St Vitus’ Cathedral and Prague castle, of course. The Golden Lane was cool. It’s easy to imagine peasants, merchants, and soldiers walking these streets and going about their business during the reign of King Charles IV, the Hapsburgs, and the Austro-Hungarians.








After touring a medieval torture chamber, we started our way back down. Pat of course had to eat a tvdlo which is a roll pastry. On the walk back we were caught in a flash thunderstorm at the end of the afternoon. We felt lucky to still be on the hill and able to see the bolts of lighting hit the 1000 spires - Amazing sight to see.


Kept walking and went to the Franz Kafka museum.

We ended the day with giant Russian mafia schnitzel and sausage on a bun… a “happy meal”.





Franz Kafka


My coles notes:

Kafka was a privileged child and probably a little bit too coddled. He was unprepared for the realities of adult life in his time and was grandiose, existential, and basically dramatic in his reflection of his experience.

He rebelled against his father and his heritage, hated his 9-5 job, and as he matured into his 30’s he began to revisit and appreciate his family and his culture…. All normal. Throughout his life, he was self-absorbed by his writing and art, and did not get married. I think if I were to meet Kafka today and have to listen to him drone on I might roll my eyes.

Kafka led a double life because of his drive to create and loathing of his profession as an insurance lawyer. He worked a 9-5 job and spent his evenings and weekends in existential thought and creation. He talked about atrophy-ing all of his other senses because he felt he needed to focus on writing and put all of his energy in that endeavor. When he contracted TB, his existential reflection went into overdrive and this combination of focus and depravity became especially thematic. The perspective he lived in eventually drove him insane and he died as a recluse in a sanitarium at 40 years old having refused to publish most of his work. It was only after his death that we really got to read Kafka.

I have always thought of Kafka’s work as a little disturbing and surreal. I thought that this may have been the translation. Knowing his history helps me understand what it is all about. His work is a commentary on an oppressed society and the monotony of the Austro-Hungarian bureaucracy in the newly industrialized world. His work is surreal because the world that he lived in felt surreal to him… as it sometimes does to all of us. This is what makes Kafka appealing to me; the unconscious comfort and familiarity which satisfies my secret existential wonderings.



“When I wanted to get out of bed this morning I simply folded up. This has a very simple cause, I am completely overworked. Not by the office, but by my other work. The office has an innocent share in it only to the extent that, if I did not have to go there I could live calmly for my own work and not have to waste these 6 hours a day which have tormented me to a degree that you cannot imagine, especially on Friday and Saturday, because I was full of my own things. In the final analysis; I know, that is just talk, the fault is mine and the office has the right to make the most definite and justified demands on me. But for me in particular it is a horrible double life from which there is probably no escape but insanity.”


-Franz Kafka, Bohemian Library, University of Oxford

Cesky Krumlov

 We took a trip a couple of hours south close to the Austrian border to a little town called Cesky Krumlov; a village that dates back to the 12th century and witnessed 2 Bohemian dynasties. The entire thing is a UNESCO protected heritage site and has been restored/kept up with care. It’s functional, although its entire business is catering to tourism. Not as many foreign tourists like ourselves here though. More Czech and regional nationals on road trips. Refreshing. Narrow streets and affordable pubs to eat at on the river make this a very charming day trip.





Concealed under the castle

More art as perspective and memorial to the Nazi horrors.